By Paul LebowitzMy most memorable Baja adventures start with a teeth-jarring drive down a rutted dirt road. The camping and fishing gear stacked in the back leaps momentarily into the air with every bump, settling back into place in a symphony of rattles and squeaks. The colorful, hard plastic kayaks perched on the roof strain against their tie-downs. By the time we reach the beach they’ll be dusted with a fine coat of Baja grit. The powdered earth seeps into the cab and settles on the tongue. More than the other iconic flavors of Mexico, the bright heat of a roasted jalapeno, or the fresh crispness of a pale lager, the taste I relish is dust spiked with the salty scent of the sea. It signals arrival on a remote beach, campfires that crackle under a star-bright sky, and a special sort of fishing that is in short supply in the good ‘ol U.S. of A. Let’s call it frontier fishing. In today’s shrinking world, trucking a kayak to a distant, hard to reach coastline is one of the few ways to sample the plenty of an untapped ocean. Go for the Fish That launch-almost-anywhere kayak is the ticket to cast-a-fish Cortez action. It’ll get you past thick kelp next to the never-fished rocks where big calico bass are waiting. Stalk secret seabass haunts, fire casts at schools of fat, unpressured yellowtail, and reel in tropical exotics. Ok, the fishing isn’t always that good. The potential is there every time you try virgin water. Approaching an unfamiliar fishery can be daunting even when fish are abundant. Don’t worry; a few simple techniques should get you by. In the northwestern corner of the peninsula, where conditions and species are similar to those California kayak anglers find at home, use typical saltwater tactics. Focus on slow trolling sabiki-caught live baits, cast plastics for saltwater bass and shallow water rockfish, and throw irons and spoons at breaking fish. The farther south you go, the more you’ll be tempted to turn to a few simple artificials. On the Sea of Cortez try chrome Krocodile spoons, heavy-duty trolling plugs such as Rapala Magnum CountDown minnows, and that old stand-by the blue and white iron. In the mangrove-lined lagoons on the other side of the southern tip of Baja, go with smaller plugs like the Yozuri Crystal Minnow or Berkley Frenzy. These simple lures will catch an astounding variety of voracious fish. Getting There Most of these more or less primitive roads are driven in standard passenger cars by the Mexican people, although the improved ground clearance and big tires of a truck or SUV makes for a more comfortable ride. With four wheel drive, sand, mud, and steep slopes need not stop a skilled driver. Reaching the beach can be a challenging ordeal for the unprepared, so it pays to be ready for the occasional mishap. The question is not if you’ll get stuck or puncture a tire, but when. I asked experienced Baja four wheeler Todd Groessl to share a few driving tips. The Okuma pro staffer has trucked his Cobra Triple as far as Punta Abreojos, Bahia Magdalena, and even to the midriff’s remote Bahia San Francisquito. “It’s best to caravan. Go with multiple vehicles,” Groessl said. That way if one gets stuck, the other can help pull it out or run for help. Pack a tow strap, an extra battery or jumpstart kit, an air pump, pressure gauge, plenty of water and spare gas cans if you’re going far. Stuck in soft sand? Groessl said carefully reducing tire pressure will free all but the most hopelessly mired. Reinflate the tires before driving on a hard surface. Finding Your Spot To keep himself from disappearing for good on Baja’s twisting two-tracks and goat paths, Groessl carries a mapping GPS. It doesn’t have to be fancy. “As long as it shows the ocean I know the right direction to head,” Groessl said. How do you know when you’ve found beach camping and kayak fishing nirvana? Not to be too ridiculous, your soul will sing when you see it. Let’s break it down, kayak fishing considerations first. On the Pacific side of the peninsula, if there isn’t a path through the surf, no matter how beautiful the spot, it’s just beach camping. Nice enough in its own way, but that kayak on the roof is more than an ornament. Move on, keeping an eye out for campsites on the sheltered side of a major point, next to a hidden cove, or along the curving shoreline of a large bay. At a new spot, watch the waves for a while. A wide surf zone where the waves crumble into weak, foamy mush is preferable to a beach break where the surf rears head high and crashes right onto the sand. Are your skills up to the challenge? What if the surf grows while you’re out? Is there an alternate landing site within paddling range? A way onto the water is only the first fishing concern. The big question is, “What’s out there?” Anyone experienced enough to kayak fish backcountry Baja beaches should already have a good idea of what constitutes ‘fishy’ water. Structure! Look at the shoreline for a clue. Is it jagged or steeply sloped? Chances are the geology extends below the surface. How about the water color? Does it abruptly run from pale blue to a darker, midnight hue? The switch marks a sudden drop-off, or a change in bottom structure from sandy to rocky. What about fish-sheltering vegetation? Are there kelp fronds, mangrove trees, or grass beds? Is the water alive with bait dappling the surface, birds crashing, or game fish boiling? If the answers are satisfying it’s time to set up camp. A good campsite is close to the beach launch but safely above the high tide line. The ground is level and firm enough to securely anchor a tent or shade canopy stake. Avoid arroyos, ravines, and other flash flood hazards. Natural shade and shelter from the wind are wonderful assets but rare. If a stiff breeze is inescapable, the truck you rolled in on makes a decent windbreak. Other niceties are a good spot for a campfire (best if you brought your own traveling fire pit) and a screened area for your portable toilet. Collect all trash and leave the beach better than you found it. Fish remains should return to the ocean. Isolation isn’t everything. Small Mexican fish camps are perched next to many of the best beach launches. The weather beaten pangas drawn up on the sand aren’t necessarily a bad sign. Although the fishing won’t be untouched, the boats usually indicate a productive area. They may also provide a back-up option for the wind-bound. |
SOUTHERN BAJA'S distant beaches give up plentiful exotics, like this broomtail grouper caught by Sunshine Groessl at Bahia Magdalena. PHOTO BY TODD GROESSL
THE BOUNCY trip to the beach is often packed with scenic splendor (top). PHOTO BY TODD GROESSL A kayak can take to the water almost anywhere - it's the most mobile of all inshore fishing vessels (bottom).
A GOOD Baja kayak fishing camp is close to the beach, safely above the high tide line, sheltered and level (top). PHOTO BY TODD GROESSL Wind is often a constant Baja companion for campers to deal with. |
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