By Paul Lebowitz

The hour of twisting highway south of the village of Big Sur hides a well-kept secret. While everything that puts the “big” in Big Sur, the largest groves of coast redwoods, hundreds of campsites, art galleries, gourmet kitchens and posh resorts, is clustered up north, the better part is down south.

The true “Sur” (Spanish for south) is rustic and rugged. Services are few, just a small store and café, a couple of lodgings, and three of the most beautiful oceanfront campgrounds anywhere in the state.

The lucky few who stop here can hike beneath a dense redwood canopy, shower in waterfall spray, hike or drive sky-high into the Santa Lucia Mountains, comb the beaches for bits of jade, and experience the thrill of kayaking and fishing in some of the most lively waters in Central California.

Three Seaside Campgrounds
The coziest campground is at Limekiln State Park. Campers here have a difficult choice. Pitch the tent steps from the beach, or beneath towering redwoods and beside a delightful creek? Whatever you decide, the semi-sheltered gravel beach is a short walk away. The beach is steep with hazardous waves that rear up and break right at the water’s edge. Experienced kayakers and divers can usually make it past the shore break; most people are content to enjoy the scenery. Kids love splashing in the creek that flows across the beach.

Limekiln has more to offer than the beach: redwoods, a waterfall, and historic structures. The redwood grove is nestled within the gullies and ravines that twist their way up the mountainside behind the campground. A series of short trails explores the dense, perpetually shaded forest. One spur leads to graceful Limekiln Falls, another to the broken-down old kilns that give the park its name.

As state parks go, Limekiln is a small one that can only accommodate a handful of cars in its day-use lot. The best way to experience the park is to camp here.

Two perks that you won’t find at the other campgrounds are hot showers and campsite reservations. Unfortunately for those who own motorhomes or longer camping trailers, the narrow and curvy park roads cannot accommodate large RVs. 

The Forest Service campground at Kirk Creek is perched at the edge of the coastal shelf overlooking the ocean. On a clear evening, every campsite has a million dollar view of the sunset. A short trail winds its way from camp along Kirk Creek down to the ocean. Need more miles? Climb all the way to the soaring peaks of the Ventana wilderness on the Kirk Creek trail that departs just across Highway 1. Back at sea level, the Mill Creek picnic area just south of camp offers a place for kayakers staying at Kirk Creek to get their boats to the water.

There is an easier way to get to the crest of the Santa Lucia Mountains than the Kirk Creek trail. Serpentine Nacimiento-Ferguson Road’s narrow ribbon of asphalt ascends through the clouds that often shroud the lower Big Sur coastline.

Several primitive Forest Service roads follow the north-south ridgeline to backcountry camping spots or wilderness trailheads. High clearance is recommended; four-wheel drive may be required to traverse some sections of the ridge roads. Few people get up there; the country is wild and beautiful. The return trip down Nacimiento-Ferguson Road treats drivers to airplane-like views on those rare sunny days.

The third and final lower Big Sur campground is Plaskett Creek, located near the Forest Service station several miles south of Kirk Creek. Unlike the other two, the campsites at Plaskett are spread out over a pleasant grassy meadow. The main attraction, Big Sur’s most family-friendly beach, is just across Highway 1.

Beautiful Sand Dollar Beach, with its long arc of soft sand, is certainly a centerpiece of southern Big Sur.

Unlike the other beaches in the area, Sand Dollar is wide and gently sloping.

The surf here breaks and expends most of its energy 50 to 100 feet from shore. Sand Dollar is usually safe for wading, and by extension surf-casting. Occasionally there are even surfers and body-boarders playing in the waves. If you want to swim here, please remember the water is frigid and there are no lifeguards present. Wear a wetsuit and be careful.  

The southern half of the beach is typically the calmest, making it a good access for kayakers and divers who are up to carrying their gear from the parking lot and down the long flight of stairs. Keep an eye out for poison oak; thick patches of the rash-causing plant line the trail to the beach.

A few minutes south of Plaskett Creek is the intriguingly named Jade Beach. Yes, the waves have been known to deposit bits of jade on this beach and others in the area. Do you feel lucky? A walk along the beach could make your day. Sift the gravelly beaches below the mean high tide line, but be cautious not to stray too close to the potentially dangerous shore break surf. Mining or removal of material above the high tide line is strictly prohibited by the Forest Service.

ALONE WITH THE FISH - The kayak anglers who brave Big Sur's waves have the water to themselves.

MORE THAN SKIN DEEP - Look beyond the beauty and what do you see? Lots of fish holding structure. PHOTO COURTESY JASON MORTON

THE KIRK CREEK CAMPGROUND, one of the country's best.

IN TIGHT –The rockfish in Big Sur are up shallow. This 7-pound lingcod was taken less than 100 feet from shore by Brendan Crahan of Central Coast Kayak Fishing Adventures.

THE SIMPLE JOY of being where so few have gone before is ample reason to kayak at lower Big Sur. PHOTO COURTESY JASON MORTON

AT KIRK CREEK the campsites have a million dollar view of the sunset. PHOTO COURTESY JASON MORTON

Other Services
Lower Big Sur doesn’t offer much in the way of civilization. The only nearby option is the tiny hamlet of Lucia just north of Limekiln, which has a small store stocked with camping supplies and staples. The adjoining café is a good place for lunch or a snack. A cup of coffee here may cost you dear but the terrific view is worth the price of admission. The nearby Lucia Lodge has ten rooms for those who need a roof overhead. A second, newer and much more unusual lodging option is the Treebones Resort which features beautifully furnished yurts and a bed and breakfast ambiance. Treebones is just a bit south of Plaskett Creek.

Big Sur’s Kayak Fishing Frontier
Few people think of Big Sur as a great place to fish. It is simply too far from the nearest ports, Monterey and Morro Bay, for most sportfishing captains and private boaters to make the long run. That leaves the fish to the kayakers who hazard the lower Big Sur beaches. Remember, most of the beaches here have shore breaks that can chew up and spit out any kayakers the waves catch. Getting past the waves is only the first of many challenges.

The chilly waters off Big Sur are notorious for capricious wind, sulking fogs, spiteful swell, and angry surf. The sea can go from benign and gentle to fierce and dangerous in a matter of minutes. If conditions get scary, you better be self-sufficient, because in spite of the nearby highway and campgrounds, on the water this place is extremely remote. Cell phones are out of range, and with no boats around there is nobody listening for your call on a marine VHF radio. Strong paddling and safety skills and good weather sense are critical. This is no place for a novice kayak angler.  

Now that you know the risks, what is the payoff, besides the heart-aching beauty, abundant sea life such as whales and dolphins, and simple joy of being where so few have gone before? Excellent fishing! The very inaccessibility and nasty weather that make it so hard to get on the water here protect one of the better shallow water rockfish fisheries between San Diego and San Francisco. The kelp beds teem with fish that average two or three pounds, and if you get out to the deeper structure, big red rockfish and bigger lingcod are likely.

You won’t have to go far to find the fish. Try the obvious structures first, the rocks and kelp beds. In the kelp beds, the usual problem isn’t finding fish, it is getting your baits past the numerous and aggressive blue rockfish. When the blues are up in the canopy, you can have a blast with bass gear and plastic swimbaits and Scampis. Fish them just as you would Southern California’s calico bass.

If you are hunting the big stuff, try looking for deeper reefs, and use larger Scampis in white, rootbeer and red, or longer swimbaits in blue and purple. The variety of rockfish in shallow is tremendous. Besides the blues, reds, and lingcod, you’ll find cabezon and olive and spotted rockfish just to name a few. The abundance of fish might tempt you to keep more than usual. Please take no more than you can use, and take time to marvel at the unspoiled beauty of the area.   

Since the extremes of Big Sur likely involve substantially more risk than most kayak anglers experience on their home waters, a few more safety reminders are merited. Consider hiring a kayak fishing guide or taking a group trip, particularly if you are an inexperienced ocean kayaker. Jason Morton of Kayak Sportfishing and Brendan Crahan of Central Coast Kayak Fishing Adventures both have the expertise to get you on the water safely in Big Sur.   

The weather in Big Sur can be poor at any time of year. Calm winds and seas are more likely in late summer and fall. It is a good idea to get on the water early, before the wind reaches its full strength. Please, wear a PFD and technical clothing designed to keep you warm if you go into the cold water.

Travel in a group for mutual support. Remember, if something goes wrong, your buddy is the only help you’re likely to get. If you can’t handle an emergency on your own, the best chance of help will come from the highway, so carry flares and other visual signals. Conditions in the Pacific Valley area are usually better than you’ll find north of Lopez Point or south of Willow Creek. Please exercise extreme caution as you approach either boundary. The sea state can change dramatically, particularly at Lopez Point, which is ravaged by strong currents and hides reefs that break unpredictably and suddenly.