By Paul Lebowitz and John Upchurch

I thought, as I have my living to get, and have not eaten to-day, that I might go a-fishing. Henry David Thoreau, Walden, 1854

After a long day of battling headwinds and chop, even a poor facsimile of beef stew poured from a foil bag can seem appetizing. As for us, we prefer the sweet taste of fish pulled fresh from the sea, charred whole on a bed of coals or sautéed on a camp stove with a splash of fine olive oil, a scattering of crushed garlic and a spritz of lime juice. No prepackaged meal can rival it, and there is little reason not to eat so well every night.

In most of the waterways we paddle, you’ll find it isn’t difficult to catch fish.

You can get by with a handful of simple techniques the world over, because a fish is a fish - whether it swims in a warm tropical lagoon or in an ice-fed fjord up in the high latitudes.

Fishing from a kayak has some real advantages. Our touring kayaks, the descendents of boats built for hunting and fishing by the Aleutians and Inuit, are capable of moving about without disturbing wildlife. Our relatively slow and quiet passage is at a speed ideal for trolling a lure.

We can also fish “skinny” water - among the rocks and shallows and the thickest prop-snagging kelp beds that fence out powerboats. Whether we want to supplement our food stocks on a multi-day kayak camping trip or take home some fish fresher than anything sold in the market, we are fortunate to be paddling an outstanding craft for the job.

There are a few disadvantages to contend with. A sea kayak is far from spacious, and it takes a bit of thought to figure out where to carry our fishing gear and our catch. We can’t move about on deck, so we need to manage everything from the cockpit. Hooking into a marlin could scuttle us in a second due to the kayak’s limited stability. Some kayak anglers have caught huge fish from kayaks—usually sit-on-tops - but most of us will want to focus on the more manageable meal-sized fish.

Fishing while sitting in a kayak is different from fishing while standing firmly ashore or while aboard a powerboat. Playing a hooked fish is a bit more challenging, but still fun. It’s a lot like playing tug-of-war on ice. Every tug on the line not only pulls the fish closer, it also pulls you - kayak and all - toward the fish. Even the smallest finny creature can spin your kayak in circles. If you hook into a larger fish, anything 10 pounds and up, you may be off on a ride.

The stability of your kayak will limit how hard you can pull against a fish - something to keep in mind when you select fishing equipment, particularly when it comes to the strength of the line you choose.

Gear to Get a Line Wet
There are two basic methods to wet a line from a touring kayak. The first, the venerable hand line, is simple to use, takes very little space and excels when used to troll at a normal paddling pace. The rod and reel set-up is more versatile. Not only can it be used on the move, it’s more effective than a hand line for fishing vertically while at rest in a kayak or casting from a shoreline camp. The downside is it takes more room to store and, as with all mechanical devices, is subject to fail under the effects of the saltwater environment.

Fishing with a Hand Line
A hand line, as simple as it is, still merits careful consideration. Small spools require more winding to take up a given length of line. The round spools commonly used to hold kite string can spin in the hand, an undesirable quality when you’re trying to gain line on a fish.

Sea-kayak instructor Scott Hilliard, an advocate of hand-line fishing, fabricates his own spools from 1/2-inch plywood. His design, a flattened bow shape about a foot long, has notches in each end to hold the line and a hole in the center for a handle. Such a spool can be reeled with one hand by “walking” the spool up the line. The flat shape takes little storage space and can be tucked under deck cords.

Hilliard winds 100 to 200 yards of strong 40-pound test monofilament fishing line onto his spool.

A GOOD fishing rod for kayaking is short enough to stow on the foredeck but long enough to let you pass the fishing line past the bow of the kayak.

HAND LINES, such as this one made by Scott Hilliard, are time-tested fish catchers ideal for kayak use. The length of shock cord and hook fashioned from a spoon handle absorb the impact of a strike and prevent the spool from being jerked into the water.

REMOVABLE MOUNTS that snap onto the deck provide a secure option for trolling with a rod and reel. Pictured, the Johnny Bar by Mad Frog Gear.

A DIVER'S GAME BAG with a folding closure is an ideal kayak landing net. It takes little storage space and locks closed for fish storage.

THE TACKLE - A Rapala lure designed to troll at five to seven feet; a treble-hook Krocodile spoon with an optional single J hook. Treble hooks are prohibited in some areas. The single hook is easier to unhook—an advantage where toothy fish, such as barracuda, are common.

The thick line is easier to handle than a lower diameter line but would require dangerous force to break if it became stuck on a rock or if a large fish was thrashing on the other end.

For safety, Hilliard ties on a 20-foot length of lighter, 20-pound test leader. When he’s ready to troll, Hilliard pays out the desired length of line, ties a loop in it with a simple overhand knot, then slips the loop over a bent spoon handle held on the deck with a short length of bungee cord. The clip holds the line against the side of the kayak, where it won’t interfere with paddling.

If he hooks an especially strong fish, Hilliard waits for it to tire itself before attempting to bring it in. He doesn’t pull the line in hand over hand, but always coils it neatly onto the spool. Loose line can ball up into a knotted mess or create a potential for entanglement. After the fish is worn out, Hilliard lands it.

Fishing with a Rod and Reel
A rod and reel vastly expands the ways in which you can present bait to the fish. You can cast accurately to spots where fish may be hiding, and you can actively set the hook and keep the line taut if the fish moves toward you.

For catching meal-sized fish in saltwater environments, from the tropics to the sub-arctic, shop for rods and reels designed for no more than 10 to 20-pound fishing line. You might be able to get by with a $50 department-store combo. For more durable equipment that you can rely on, you can spend quite a bit more. A solid saltwater spinning reel should run at least $50 itself, and the rod should be about the same or a bit less.

Unless you’re off on a freshwater trip, bypass the willowy lightweight trout rods - you’ll want a rod with some real backbone. A fiberglass rod is often more durable than a sensitive-but-brittle graphite rod. Make sure the line guides (the loops that guide the line along the length of the rod) are strong and well anchored to the rod. If they wiggle at a light touch, they aren’t up to the punishment of kayak cruising.

Rod length is a matter of personal preference. If you want to be able to pass the line in front of the bow from one side of the kayak to the other, you need a long reach. For most kayakers, that means a seven-foot rod. Naturally, there’s a trade-off. The longer the rod, the more awkward it is to land a fish or rethread line through the guides while on the water. If you opt for a shorter rod that’s easier to stow, you can usually manage a fish that swims from one side of the kayak to the other by pivoting the kayak with one hand on the paddle and the other on the fishing pole.

Trolling with a rod and reel is best if you mount a rod holder on the deck. For those who’d prefer not to drill holes in their kayaks for a permanent installation, there are removable mounts that clip on and off in moments. Angle the pole so the fishing line won’t interfere with your paddle stroke.

Other Gear
You’ll want a few other items close at hand when you’re fishing. A pair of needle-nose pliers with a built-in cutter is essential for unhooking fish and snipping line. It’s wise to have a knife at the ready for quickly cutting your way out should you hook an overly large fish or become entangled in your line.

A diver’s game bag makes a compact net. Its fine mesh is gentle on the fish, and its folding rim holds the bag open for landing a fish and keeps the bag closed for carrying it. If you pass on the game bag, then consider taking along a small fish stringer. Any small, floating container makes for adequate tackle storage, although you might consider purchasing a low-profile tackle flat. Gloves are useful for handling line or landing spiny fish. You should always have a paddle leash: The last thing you want to do is lose your paddle while fighting a fish.

Before you try fishing from your sea kayak, it’s imperative that you feel comfortable and secure sitting in your boat with your hands off the paddle. You can make any kayak less “twitchy” by securing ballast in the bottom of the kayak close to amidships.

When fishing, it’s easy to become absorbed in what’s happening with the line. Don’t lose track of your surroundings. Keep tabs on your drift, weather and current changes, and other boating traffic.

Bait and Lures
No matter how inexperienced you are, you can catch fish on virtually any water in the world. Although the fish we’re targeting from our sea kayaks aren’t large, they are voracious predators usually on the lookout for their next meal. Fish rely on their senses to find food: sight, smell and the ability to feel vibration.

Natural baits stimulate at least two of the three senses but work best if they match the forage available in a given location. Bait is simple to use - all you need is a variety of small hooks and sinkers, along with some cut squid or mackerel purchased in advance of your trip or even some table scraps. Before embarking on your trip, ask the folks at a local tackle shop what they recommend using for bait.

Bait is great cast from shore and left to sit on the bottom while you set up camp. In many environments, bait is ineffective on the troll because it lacks a natural swimming action. It can be trolled effectively if you know how to cut it so that it has action or if it is a live finfish (not practical for touring kayakers). In colder waters, where fish usually stay near the bottom at greater depths, special gear-intensive techniques are required. For trolling, casting or jigging, your best bet is to buy a few lures.

Fishing lures entice fish to bite by simulating the look and/or vibration of natural prey. The characteristics that trigger a strike are nearly universal, so we can get by just about anywhere with a handful of lures and techniques. For touring kayakers, where space is at a premium and lure durability and versatility are critical, spoons and minnow-shaped hard-bodied lures known as plugs are the staples.

Spoons derive their name from their curved shape. Most work well trolled, cast out and reeled in, or even when allowed to drop straight down through the water and jigged up and down. The Luhr Jensen Krocodile is a common and effective spoon. Available in sizes from 1/6th of an ounce to several ounces, it catches everything from small trout to powerful blue-water game fish. Since you can never be sure what size lure will work best, it’s wise to take an assortment. For saltwater, we use spoons from half an ounce to about two ounces, and for freshwater, we use spoons under one ounce. Chrome and chrome with prism tape are usually effective color choices, but consider taking a variety of patterns so you’ll have one that matches the color of the local forage.

Unlike spoons, minnow-shaped plugs are designed to run at a specific water depth. Their shapes and motions imitate wounded baitfish, easy pickings for hungry game fish. For general saltwater use, choose lures between three and four inches long that are designated to run between five and 10 feet deep. Rapala Magnums and Rebel Spoonbills or Fastracs are stand-outs in this category.

Look for lure models that float when at rest. Those that sink can snag the bottom if left unattended when you stop. In freshwater, gear down to 1- to 2-inch Rapala CountDown minnows. Buy a few replacement hooks when you purchase your plugs - some fish can twist the hooks into pretzels.

Trolling with a lure is best when you have miles of water to traverse. For plugs, tie your line directly to the lure. Spoons should be attached to your line via a swivel to prevent line twist. Then, while traveling at normal paddling speed, gradually pay out your hand line, or make a lazy cast over your shoulder with your pole. Fifty to a hundred feet of line is plenty. Then go on your way, but check your line frequently, particularly if there is any debris in the water. Fish won’t bite a lure festooned with a garland of weeds. To increase your chances of hooking a fish, troll parallel to the shoreline in water just a bit deeper than your lure is designed to run.

If you’re not underway, but just out to catch dinner, fish near underwater structures. Fish aren’t scattered randomly about. They tend to congregate around food sources, for example, at the upwind or up-current edge of an underwater structure or kelp forest. Look for the exposed tops of coral heads, boulders that lie at the foot of steep shoreline, or kelp fronds. Fish will congregate near these formations rather than in the middle of flat featureless seabeds or lakebeds.

These underwater structures can be hazards. Don’t risk your safety by fishing too close to breaking surf and jagged rocks. A fish can pull your kayak closer to the danger zone, so allow an extra margin of safety.

With a spoon, you can use a vertical approach. Allow the bait to flutter down near the bottom. Be ready for a strike on the fall. If the lure reaches the bottom, reel up about a foot and start jigging the lure upward a few feet, then letting it fall close to the bottom. Stop every so often to allow the lure to hit bottom. You can also try casting a spoon or a plug, reeling it in at a speed that keeps the lure near but not dragging along the bottom.

Bumping the bottom once in a while can attract fish, but doing so too much tends to snag weeds or rocks and risks loss of the lure. Keep your reel’s drag set tight, or keep a firm grip on your hand line. Once a fish hits, it’ll try to escape to the shelter of the rocks. If it wedges itself into a crevice, you might never get it out, so reel as fast as you can when you hook one.

Fish aren’t equally active throughout the day. They tend to sulk under the hot midday sun, and feed furiously when food is temporarily in abundance. Use observation to learn the patterns, and you’ll enjoy greater success. As you fish an area, you’ll learn what times and conditions make it worth your while to wet a line.

What’s Lurking Beneath the Surface
When fishing near saltwater structures, you’re likely to catch bass-shaped fish, ranging from the tasty white-fleshed rockfish and snapper that inhabit the temperate and cold waters of the Eastern Pacific to the wide variety of grouper that swim in the warmer, sub-tropical waters of Latin America. Big-mouthed lingcod and their cousins the cabezon are found among the rockfish. Don’t be shocked if they have blue-green flesh; it cooks up to a flaky ivory-white.

In temperate to tropical waters, your lures might be savagely attacked by skinny, elongated fishes boasting a wicked array of teeth. Fish in this family include several varieties of barracuda and needlefish, among others. Powerful jacks will put you to the test with their relentless strength. Unless you hook them in open water, you’ll have little hope of landing anything but the smallest jack crevalle, amberjack or yellowtail on the light line we use.

In the tropics, you’ll hook many fish of a colorful and wacky appearance, including the oddball triggerfish. If you stray out to the deep blue water, you could even hook dorado and various tunas, more than you might want to bargain for. Since even a large fish will strike a small bait, it’s critical that you use light line that will break before the struggles of a strong fish could cause a capsize.

The world’s waters are filled with a wonderful diversity of fish. The local fishermen are usually happy to tell you what you might catch from your kayak.

Once you’ve hooked your fish and reeled it to the side of the kayak, take a good look at what you’ve got. If you’re new to fishing in an area, you may not know what sort of fish you’ll bring to the surface. If it looks especially spiny, toothy or bizarre, just cut the line! Some of the really strange-looking fish are toxic. No fish is worth jeopardizing your safety, particularly if you are miles away from medical help. If the fish is a manageable size, land it with your diver’s game bag if you have one, or with pliers or even by hand (gloves optional).

To land a fish caught on a fishing pole without reaching precariously overboard, leave out a length of line equal the length of the pole, then hold the pole vertically. The fish will come right to the cockpit.

For most of the fish you’ll catch, no special measures are required for dispatching them. Your best bet is to play the fish so that it’s exhausted and docile when you bring it aboard. Slide fish to be kept and cooked into the cockpit or your day hatch, or tuck your net bag or stringer beneath your deck cords. Dragging your catch on a stringer over the side is just that - a drag - and in saltwater is an invitation for some harassment from sea lions. Clean and cook your fish as soon as possible, and enjoy.

Protect and Respect the Resource
Fishing regulations vary widely from country to country and state to state. Don’t fish without a license. In some places, if you’re caught doing so, you might have to forfeit your kayak. Research the local license requirements before undertaking your trip. Once you reach your put-in, take the time to stop at a local tackle shop or fisheries management office for the most recent regulations. While you’re there, you can also get invaluable local tips on what to target and which lures are hottest.

Don’t contribute to the decline of an overfished species. Check on closed seasons, and pay careful attention to any moratoriums on depleted or endangered species. If you land a fish and have any doubts as to its legality, handle it as little as possible and release it gently. For that matter, please respectfully release any fish you don’t plan to eat. Most fish can be released without touching them if you grab the hook shank with a pair of pliers and then invert it. The weight of the fish should dislodge the hook.

Once you’ve caught your supper, consider pulling your lines in to protect the resource. If you plan to do some catch-and-release sport fishing, use only artificial baits, and mash down your barbs to reduce the possibility of unintentionally injuring a fish.